Hola to all my lost long friends and family.
It seems as if I’ve been gone for far more than just 2.5 months. I’m not saying that I want to, but even if I were to leave now this has been a once in a lifetime experience. My Spanish, even though far from perfect, is way better than it ever would be. I’ve also learned to live without so many things that I was accustomed to (even though I still miss them; i.e. huge wardrobe, the wii, cooking whatever I want whenever I want, going to Meijer several times a day, my debit card, my car, hot showers, frosting, and unlimited access to the internet). I’ve learned to appreciate the little things that I can still enjoy; i.e. nacatamales, rosquillas, watching Disney channel with my nephew, talking in English with my fellow aspirantes, having an excuse not to shower or do laundry when the water goes out, not having to cook or clean for myself, and my mosquitero.
It seems as if I’ve been gone for far more than just 2.5 months. I’m not saying that I want to, but even if I were to leave now this has been a once in a lifetime experience. My Spanish, even though far from perfect, is way better than it ever would be. I’ve also learned to live without so many things that I was accustomed to (even though I still miss them; i.e. huge wardrobe, the wii, cooking whatever I want whenever I want, going to Meijer several times a day, my debit card, my car, hot showers, frosting, and unlimited access to the internet). I’ve learned to appreciate the little things that I can still enjoy; i.e. nacatamales, rosquillas, watching Disney channel with my nephew, talking in English with my fellow aspirantes, having an excuse not to shower or do laundry when the water goes out, not having to cook or clean for myself, and my mosquitero.
Speaking of my mosquitero, the following is a poem penned by yours truly.
Me and My Mosquitero
I love my mosquitero.
Love it, I really do. I
t feels more like a fort
Than a cage at the zoo.
It protects me from malaria.
That prevention is a must
If I’m sleeping through the night
Or napping after lunch.
Its big and green and makes my bed
Oh so cozy when I rest my head.
My new address is:
Shona Smith
Postal Numero 5
San Carlos, Rio San Juan, Nicaragua
If you start sending my letters there I will be sure to get them sooner at my site. Otherwise, I’d have to wait until I get back to Managua, and I don’t know when that would be. By the way, I am writing this on my compañera Natalie’s computer, so I don’t have to worry about the time factor. Also, it is much more grammatically considerate.
Outline of the rest of this blog:
Food
Television
Weather
My future home
Food: The food here is good just a little too similar each day. There are two typical breakfasts. The first consists of a huge plate of fruit including at least two or three of the following: watermelon, banana, pineapple, papaya, or mango and a small loaf of bread with pre-sugared instant coffee. I used to eat this breakfast every week day. However, about a month ago I began having extreme sensitivity (ironically enough the word in Spanish is sensibilidad and makes me think of sense and sensibility every time I hear it or say it) in one of my front upper teeth. It got so bad that I could feel it no matter the liquid or its temperature. However, I did master the skill of putting my tongue behind my tooth every time I drank something. This started on a Friday, and conveniently I was headed to Managua that Monday for some sessions before Practicum Week. While it wasn’t an extreme emergency, I decided to call the med office on Sunday to see if I could somehow get a dental appointment while in Managua. If I couldn’t I would probably have had to go at least another week without getting it checked because I was headed to San Ramon, 4 hours from Managua, until Friday. I didn’t think it was really serious, but the more people I talked to the more scary possibilities they suggested, i.e. cavity, skin graft, dying tooth, exposed nerves. Miraculously I got an appointment for 10:30 on Monday morning and Eduardo, our chauffeur, support staff, problem solver, snack buyer, and anything else we might need, drove me to the dentist. She was super sweet and will be the one to give me my yearly cleaning. She did some x-rays and told me my teeth were perfect. However, without even asking what I generally ate she said that I could not eat pineapple for at least ten days and should eat/drink other citrus fruits cautiously. She said my tooth should feel better within the week, and the sensitivity is actually a common occurrence resulting from too much citrus. I laid off the piña and was back to normal in a couple of days. However, my family found this very entertaining when I got back home and told them. I think the funniest part came exactly 9 days after I returned from practicum week when my mom bought a pineapple, told me several times how sweet it was, and said she would serve it to me the next day. The following day I had fresco de pineapple for lunch as well as a huge chunk of it as a snack while watching my favorite telenovela, El Fantasma de Elena. I now only eat it occasionally. (I forgot to mention that the pineapple down here is white and much more flavorful than in the states). Additionally, I don’t eat a huge plate of fruit every day. My family is beginning to wean me off of it because it is somewhat expensive.
Instead I often eat another typical breakfast. This includes gallo pinto (fried beans and fried rice that they fry once more while mixing them together), fried egg, fried platano, and fried cheese with tortilla and the same pre-sugared instant coffee. (I now have a special place in my heart for this super sweet weak drink. I still enjoy my coffee dark and black, but a little sugar makes me feel at home). This breakfast is often hard to eat so early in the morning due to all the grease and more than once I’ve felt slightly queasy in class after. Nonetheless, I love a good piece of queso frito. Other times this breakfast is varied to some combination of egg (scrambled with peppers or ham, or just fried in oil), beans, bread, and a banana or avocado. This variation has come more recently since my mom left for Costa Rica (Her dad who lives there is very sick, so she’s down there for the rest of my training). Any of these breakfasts can include rosquillas if my host dad walks by while I’m eating.
My favorite breakfast only comes on Sundays (and not every Sunday). This breakfast is Nacatamales. You haven’t lived until you’ve eaten one. The are similar to a traditional tamal but yet very different and much better. It is a mixture or corn meal/dough (called masa), some rice, a piece of sausage, a piece of potato, a piece onion, and if you’re lucky you’ll be alarmingly surprised by a piece of spicy pepper. All of this is perfectly arranged in a Banana leaf (they look identical every time) wrapped up and cooked in a pot over the fire/coals for a while. My family buys them from my aunt. However, when I’m in my site I will buy them from a lady who makes them on the street corner every Sunday for 24 cordobas (just over 1 u.s. dollar). It is more than enough for a meal so I plan to save the leftovers for breakfast each Monday.
Wow, that was a lot of information on breakfast. Moving on to lunch. Lunches vary greatly so I’ll just list some typical dishes. Rice + tomato salad / tomatoes/ cabbage salad +platano maduro, + some kind of meat (usually chicken) (that’s what I ate today), soup with rice and huge chunks of veggies, a whole fish (eyes included which I don’t eat) with a side of soup and rice, the new lunch for Friday’s during lent: cheese soup with rice and corn meal patties/cookies, or sopa de frijoles (one of my personal favs). The first time I ate this bean soup I was extremely frightened. It includes an item in the soup that looks very similar to an internal organ. I waited until my mom left the room and decided just to cut it in half with my spoon to investigate. Surprisingly it was just a poached egg that got died brown because of the beans. I proceeded to eat it and have loved it every since.
Dinner is generally beans and rice or gallo pinto, corn tortilla, cheese (white and salty yet super natural), and avocado or tomatoes. Occassionally there will be a fried egg (my personal favorite) or fried cheese. On Sundays I sometimes have tamales with dinner and we generally drink coca cola.
Drinks for every other lunch and dinner are usually some type of fresco (lately pinolillo, made of ground corn). My favorite is arroz con piña (pink, thick, and looks like pepto-bismol). Much of these things may change once I get to my new home in Rio San Juan so I’ll keep you all posted because I’m sure you’re just soooo fascinated with my dietary habits.
P. s. you can’t get virtually any American food from any American restaurant in Managua including subway and mcflurries.
Television: I currently have cable television in my home, but I probably won’t when I move. It has all the basic channels like Disney, cartoon network, discovery, history, tnt, cnn, tcm, espn, and fox. Additionally, there are music video channels, local programming channels, several channels with a mix of current shows from the u.s., and a random assortment of movie and other channels with Spanish programming. You can pretty much always find a good American movie either dubbed in Spanish or with subtitles. I watched American Idol last night (the episode from march 8). I’m beginning to get really annoyed when you all tell me you think of me every time you watch survivor. I would absolutely love to be watching it too, but I have yet to see it on tv down here. However, it was filmed on the pacific coast a few hours from my future home, and the volunteer before me met some of the crew.
A couple weeks ago I watched Apocalypto with my host mom and dad (my dad loved it because as he explained to me, obviously in Spanish, it is a story about events than actually happened to tribes of people in Central and South America). I think he felt that it was a part of his history, and we connected on feeling a deep sense of pain for the people who had to go through pointless suffering and persecution like that (something that nicaraguans definitely understand). The more I read my Nicaraguan History Packet the more remorseful I feel as an American. I’m not going to go into it here, but our country does a lot of ridiculous things just to keep control of people we have no business controlling just for the sake of having control (and it keeps happening every day).
Telenovelas are also super popular down here and are on primetime, as well as throughout the afternoon, every weekday. Unlike soap operas in the states these generally only run for a couple of years. I just saw a preview for a new novela that is almost an exact replica of Grey’s Anatomy. I can’t remember the name now, but all of the characters look remarkably similar to the main characters on Grey’s. Oh how Nicas love their American culture.
Weather: I’m going to skip this because the only significant thing to note is that it’s hot and generally very windy (that’s usually the reason for power outages) in Santa Teresa, and it is even hotter, humid, and often rainy in Sabalos (my future home).
Instead I often eat another typical breakfast. This includes gallo pinto (fried beans and fried rice that they fry once more while mixing them together), fried egg, fried platano, and fried cheese with tortilla and the same pre-sugared instant coffee. (I now have a special place in my heart for this super sweet weak drink. I still enjoy my coffee dark and black, but a little sugar makes me feel at home). This breakfast is often hard to eat so early in the morning due to all the grease and more than once I’ve felt slightly queasy in class after. Nonetheless, I love a good piece of queso frito. Other times this breakfast is varied to some combination of egg (scrambled with peppers or ham, or just fried in oil), beans, bread, and a banana or avocado. This variation has come more recently since my mom left for Costa Rica (Her dad who lives there is very sick, so she’s down there for the rest of my training). Any of these breakfasts can include rosquillas if my host dad walks by while I’m eating.
My favorite breakfast only comes on Sundays (and not every Sunday). This breakfast is Nacatamales. You haven’t lived until you’ve eaten one. The are similar to a traditional tamal but yet very different and much better. It is a mixture or corn meal/dough (called masa), some rice, a piece of sausage, a piece of potato, a piece onion, and if you’re lucky you’ll be alarmingly surprised by a piece of spicy pepper. All of this is perfectly arranged in a Banana leaf (they look identical every time) wrapped up and cooked in a pot over the fire/coals for a while. My family buys them from my aunt. However, when I’m in my site I will buy them from a lady who makes them on the street corner every Sunday for 24 cordobas (just over 1 u.s. dollar). It is more than enough for a meal so I plan to save the leftovers for breakfast each Monday.
Wow, that was a lot of information on breakfast. Moving on to lunch. Lunches vary greatly so I’ll just list some typical dishes. Rice + tomato salad / tomatoes/ cabbage salad +platano maduro, + some kind of meat (usually chicken) (that’s what I ate today), soup with rice and huge chunks of veggies, a whole fish (eyes included which I don’t eat) with a side of soup and rice, the new lunch for Friday’s during lent: cheese soup with rice and corn meal patties/cookies, or sopa de frijoles (one of my personal favs). The first time I ate this bean soup I was extremely frightened. It includes an item in the soup that looks very similar to an internal organ. I waited until my mom left the room and decided just to cut it in half with my spoon to investigate. Surprisingly it was just a poached egg that got died brown because of the beans. I proceeded to eat it and have loved it every since.
Dinner is generally beans and rice or gallo pinto, corn tortilla, cheese (white and salty yet super natural), and avocado or tomatoes. Occassionally there will be a fried egg (my personal favorite) or fried cheese. On Sundays I sometimes have tamales with dinner and we generally drink coca cola.
Drinks for every other lunch and dinner are usually some type of fresco (lately pinolillo, made of ground corn). My favorite is arroz con piña (pink, thick, and looks like pepto-bismol). Much of these things may change once I get to my new home in Rio San Juan so I’ll keep you all posted because I’m sure you’re just soooo fascinated with my dietary habits.
P. s. you can’t get virtually any American food from any American restaurant in Managua including subway and mcflurries.
Television: I currently have cable television in my home, but I probably won’t when I move. It has all the basic channels like Disney, cartoon network, discovery, history, tnt, cnn, tcm, espn, and fox. Additionally, there are music video channels, local programming channels, several channels with a mix of current shows from the u.s., and a random assortment of movie and other channels with Spanish programming. You can pretty much always find a good American movie either dubbed in Spanish or with subtitles. I watched American Idol last night (the episode from march 8). I’m beginning to get really annoyed when you all tell me you think of me every time you watch survivor. I would absolutely love to be watching it too, but I have yet to see it on tv down here. However, it was filmed on the pacific coast a few hours from my future home, and the volunteer before me met some of the crew.
A couple weeks ago I watched Apocalypto with my host mom and dad (my dad loved it because as he explained to me, obviously in Spanish, it is a story about events than actually happened to tribes of people in Central and South America). I think he felt that it was a part of his history, and we connected on feeling a deep sense of pain for the people who had to go through pointless suffering and persecution like that (something that nicaraguans definitely understand). The more I read my Nicaraguan History Packet the more remorseful I feel as an American. I’m not going to go into it here, but our country does a lot of ridiculous things just to keep control of people we have no business controlling just for the sake of having control (and it keeps happening every day).
Telenovelas are also super popular down here and are on primetime, as well as throughout the afternoon, every weekday. Unlike soap operas in the states these generally only run for a couple of years. I just saw a preview for a new novela that is almost an exact replica of Grey’s Anatomy. I can’t remember the name now, but all of the characters look remarkably similar to the main characters on Grey’s. Oh how Nicas love their American culture.
Weather: I’m going to skip this because the only significant thing to note is that it’s hot and generally very windy (that’s usually the reason for power outages) in Santa Teresa, and it is even hotter, humid, and often rainy in Sabalos (my future home).
Rio San Juan = my home in hopefully two weeks: I will be living in a somewhat quaint little river town (I have edited out the name for security purposes) about two hours east of San Carlos (capital of Rio San Juan). It is less than an hour north of Costa Rica, and many of the residents work in Tico (costa rica). Nonetheless most nicas don’t like ticos and vice versa. My town has about 2500 residents and 42 surrounding communities many of which are only primarily accessible by river. Most people travel there by river, but if one absolutely has to use a car they can drive on a road north of the rio san juan and cross the rio on super small car ferry. There are 8 pulperias (little corner stores), a couple of comedors (cheap restaurants), several hotels (one very nice hotel across the rio where hopefully my parents will stay when the come to visit), 2 schools, a health center, casa materna, police station, basketball court, and of course the dock. The people are very friendly and are used to having a female peace corps volunteer (I will be the seventh). I will be living in a hospedaje (hotel) for the first two months owned by Clarisa (my host mom) who is related to about half of the town. She is super kind and sweet and is a great cook. While I’ll have my own little room, I’m already looking forward to living on my own. The volunteer before me (she just moved out last week) lived in a great house up a little hill from the dock. Supposedly it is one of the nicest volunteer houses. It’s a little pricey but I think it would be worth it. Currently there is a german roommate who will be living in it until October, so I would have to get to know her before asking if I can move in . I also got several offers from families who want me to live with them, but right now I think I’ll want my independence and more privacy.
I’ll only talk briefly about my future work because this post is super long (four pages). There is a huge variety, which I love. I will be working a lot in the casa materna and occasionally in the centro de salud (its always busy). I also hope to form a young women’s group and pregnant women’s group (it also will consist of young women due to the high prevalence of teen pregnancies). I hope make frequent trips to the outlying communities with a health worker who has a boat. Another project I want to start is a youth group focused on promoting tourism. I think if the young people had something more productive and fun to do they’d be a little less likely to get pregnant. Though there are several men who give tours (and also enjoy speaking the English they know to me), but there is still a lot of undeveloped tourism. Additionally there is a chocolate co-op, but it is run by germans (actually ritter sport). I want to get the local youth involved in making and marketing chocolate locally and to tourists. This side project would be a big undertaking so we’ll see how much of it happens. There is also a huge desire for English classes, so I’ll probably work in the school with a mix of health education and English clubs. I also plan to work on improvements in hygiene and sanitation as well as brigadista training to sustain my work after I leave. I’ll keep you updated on my work over the next two years.
If you actually read this entire entry thank you, and I hope you enjoyed it and got many of your questions answered. I love and miss you all. The next time I post I promise it will be sooner and not quite this long.
Paz and Cheers
I’ll only talk briefly about my future work because this post is super long (four pages). There is a huge variety, which I love. I will be working a lot in the casa materna and occasionally in the centro de salud (its always busy). I also hope to form a young women’s group and pregnant women’s group (it also will consist of young women due to the high prevalence of teen pregnancies). I hope make frequent trips to the outlying communities with a health worker who has a boat. Another project I want to start is a youth group focused on promoting tourism. I think if the young people had something more productive and fun to do they’d be a little less likely to get pregnant. Though there are several men who give tours (and also enjoy speaking the English they know to me), but there is still a lot of undeveloped tourism. Additionally there is a chocolate co-op, but it is run by germans (actually ritter sport). I want to get the local youth involved in making and marketing chocolate locally and to tourists. This side project would be a big undertaking so we’ll see how much of it happens. There is also a huge desire for English classes, so I’ll probably work in the school with a mix of health education and English clubs. I also plan to work on improvements in hygiene and sanitation as well as brigadista training to sustain my work after I leave. I’ll keep you updated on my work over the next two years.
If you actually read this entire entry thank you, and I hope you enjoyed it and got many of your questions answered. I love and miss you all. The next time I post I promise it will be sooner and not quite this long.
Paz and Cheers
Shona I loved reading this! So great to hear what life is like and picture you in it. And I loved the poem, props on that :) Keep on writing my friend!
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